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Odense: In the Footsteps of Andersen

18 October 2019
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In the heart of Denmark, in the town of Odense, stands a little yellow house that is home to one of the world’s oldest literary museums. Here, the very soul of fairy tales seems to reside. Even if you visit for only an hour or two, you find yourself reconnecting with your inner child. This was the home of Hans Christian Andersen for many years—and it makes the perfect starting point for a tour of the places he lived, loved, and wove into the timeless atmosphere of his stories.

The Garden of Denmark

So where exactly are we? Like a rare pearl set amid rolling greenery, Odense sits on Funen, Denmark’s second-largest island. The Great Belt Bridge links it to the mainland, but you can also reach it by road—Copenhagen is barely a half-hour away. Odense is one of Denmark’s oldest historic centers, celebrating its millennium in 1988. In the Middle Ages it drew pilgrims to St. Canute’s Cathedral—one of the country’s finest Gothic churches, guardian of the patron saint’s relics and, since 1521, the tomb of King John. Throughout the 19th century, Odense was a hub of political activity.

A Look Around

The ideal time to visit lies between spring and early autumn, when the weather is mild and inviting. But Odense has plenty to offer year-round. Wander its narrow lanes, lined with timber-framed and brick houses that once served as guild halls. Today the town bustles with commerce: its river port connects to the rest of Denmark, and industries—from metallurgy and electrical engineering to textiles, food production, tobacco, and papermaking—are woven into the region’s heritage.

Cinema Takes Center Stage

Each August, Odense hosts the International Film Festival OFF. Since its inception in 1975, OFF has been known for pushing boundaries. Short films find a welcoming space where culture and discovery converge—and where the experience goes far beyond the screen. In the Brandt district, every screening is paired with debates, lectures, workshops, and concerts that bring the neighborhood to life and involve audiences in the creative process.

The Zoo is home to more than 2,000 species of animals. From African antelopes to Siberian tigers, macaques to red pandas, endangered tapirs to gentle manatees, it’s a realm of exotic—and native—wildlife you won’t encounter all in one place anywhere else. It’s a captivating world for visitors of all ages.

For Harry Potter fans there’s an unmissable event in October: the Magic Day Festival. When schools break for autumn, enthusiasts of the famous young wizard gather—thanks to the National Library—to immerse themselves in a realm where the rules of the unreal apply.

September… A Feast for the Senses

With steins and tokens in hand, September brings Odense’s annual Beer Day celebration—an event as steadfast as it is festive. Nearby, the revitalized Food Festival showcases Denmark’s culinary excellence, with producers serving up local delicacies in restaurants and on the streets for even the most discerning palates.

Each August, some 100,000 visitors flock to the Flower Festival, where 180,000 specimens of plants, flowers, and vegetables are artfully displayed around a seasonally changing theme. The same month also revives medieval Odense: Vikings and knights, driven by drumbeats and flute melodies, transport guests on a truly evocative journey back in time.

In May the Viking Market returns, complete with Iron Age–style battles and fires stoked in local ovens. June and August are reserved for Fairy Tales on the River, where Andersen’s spirit is reborn as you drift along the water. A parade in the park dedicated to him brings his best-loved tales to life through the creativity and energy of its performers.

Andersen, Andersen, Andersen…

On April 2nd, his birthday is honored with a series of free performances. In August, a festival in his name offers guided tours, theatrical productions, street-art displays, and more—a blend of folklore and modernity celebrating the writer and his admirers. Then in December, the characters born of his imagination materialize for Christmas, surrounded by jugglers, acrobats, rides, and barrel organs in a truly head-spinning spectacle.

Read also: Getting Married in Autumn
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